Born in Gibraltar in 1960, Dior's chief designer John Galliano graduated from London's prestigious St Martins College of Art & Design with a first-class degree in 1983.
His graduation collection, called 'Les Incroyables' and inspired by the French Revolution, met with immediate acclaim (
Vogue's Spy column described Galliano as "a modish costumier, with a preference for romanticism and androgyny"). The collection was snapped up in its entirety by Joan Burstein, who put the designs in the window of her South Molton Street boutique, Browns, during London Fashion Week. Among those who saw the display was the French designer Joseph, who placed an order with Galliano, sparking feverish interest in the fabulously inventive young graduate.
Galliano officially launched his own label in 1984, producing historically influenced designs laced with a contemporary edge. Part romantic, part maverick, Galliano was always a couturier at heart and delicate bias-cut gowns and superbly tailored suits fast became his trademark. In 1987, they won him his first British Designer of The Year award. But his financial difficulties did not end, so in 1990, Galliano turned his back on London and joined the ranks of international designers seeking their fortunes at the ready-to-wear collections in Paris.
Before securing a contract with luxury conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Galliano faced bankruptcy on
more than one occasion despite consistent critical acclaim. His salvation was the loyalty he inspired in other figures within the fashion business, like Kate Moss, who were prepared to work for little more than
love in the early years.
Happily, in 1995, Galliano was appointed chief designer at Givenchy, becoming the first British designer to head a French couture
house. He grabbed headlines with a series of risqu?designs aimed to transform the profile and fortunes of the back-dated company. A year later, on 14 October 1996, Galliano was awarded the glittering prize of the house of Christian Dior - Givenchy's stablemate at LVMH. His first couture show for Dior coincided with the label's 50th anniversary, 20 January 1997.
These days, between his label and Dior, Galliano is responsible for producing six couture and ready-to-wear collections a year and a new mid-season range under his own name. He also follows a rigorous exercise regime, which sees him rise at 6am each morning to complete a gruelling, 40-minute aerobic session with his
personal trainer, before embarking on a 10-minute stretch, 150 push-ups and a six-mile jog along the banks of the Seine. "Working flat out, it was a necessary step to take," he once said. "It helps to concentrate the mind and I find that I have so much more energy and focus." In 2000, he went as far as to claim that he also had found his inspiration for the couture collection of boho-meets-hobo chic he unveiled that January during his jogging sessions, as he ran past
les clochards, the homeless people, lining the river, adding that he hoped to expose the pure decadence of the couture by "turning it inside out".
Galliano won the title British Designer of The Year in 1987, 1994, and 1995. In 1997, he shared the award with Alexander McQueen, his successor at Givenchy.