精美汉堡风靡巴黎

In Paris, Burgers Turn Chic

By JANE SIGAL

Published: July 16, 2008

 EVEN if you couldn’t be on the Champs-Élysées for Bastille Day on Monday to watch seven parachutists float down in front of President Nicolas Sarkozy, you can still celebrate the greatness of France with a new local tradition.

Eat a hamburger.

如果你不能在星期一亲临巴士底日阅兵式现场，目睹7个伞形兵在萨科奇总统面前飘然而至的景象，那么你还可以用一种当地新的传统方式庆祝法兰西的伟大。

那就是吃汉堡包 。

Beginning a few years ago but picking up momentum in the past nine months, hamburgers and cheeseburgers have invaded the city.

这一活动几年前开始出现，而在过去9个月才盛行起来，汉堡包和奶酪夹心饼已经风靡整个城市。

Anywhere tourists are likely to go this summer — in St.-Germain cafes, in fashion-world hangouts, even in restaurants run by three-star chefs — they are likely to find a juicy beef patty, almost invariably on a sesame seed bun.

今年夏天旅游者喜欢去的任何地方，如在圣.格梅咖啡馆，时装商店，甚至由三星级厨师经营的餐厅，都可以找到多汁的牛肉小馅饼，他们几乎无一例外地放在一个芝麻小圆饼上。

“It has the taste of the forbidden, the illicit — the subversive, even,” said Hélène Samuel, a restaurant consultant here. “Eating with your hands, it’s pure regression. Naturally, everyone wants it.”

“它有一种前所未有的美味，平和的，”这里的一位名叫海伦珊缪尔的餐厅顾问说，“用手拿着吃，这是一种纯粹的返璞归真。自然而然，大家都喜欢。”

It is a startling turnaround in a country where a chef once sued McDonald’s for $2.7 million in damages over a poster that suggested he was dreaming of a Big Mac. Hamburgers were everything that French dining is not: informal, messy, fast and foreign.

这是一个令人震惊的转机，在一乡下的地方，一个厨师曾经用海报起诉麦当劳，要求其赔偿270万美元，海报上说他梦到一个大麦当劳汉堡包，它是不正宗的，是肮脏的、速成的、外来的，而法式餐绝不会出现这些问题。

But as French chefs have embraced the quintessentially American food, they have also made it their own, incorporating Gallic flourishes like cornichons, fleur de sel and fresh thyme. These attempts to translate the burger, or maybe even improve it, strongly suggest that it is here to stay.

但法国厨师们已经掌握了美式食品的精髓，他们自己制作，吸收了高卢风味，如加入了酸黄瓜，新鲜百里香等。这些尝试改变甚至改进汉堡包的举措，表明其在当地十分流行。

 “It’s not just a fad,” said Frédérick Grasser-Hermé, who, as consulting chef at the Champs-Élysées boîte Black Calvados, developed a burger made with wagyu beef and seasoned with what she calls a black ketchup of blackberries and black currants. “It’s more than that. The burger has become gastronomic.”

“这不仅仅是一时兴起，”弗雷德说，他是Champs-Élysées boîte Black Calvados的厨师顾问，她发明了一种汉堡包，用牛肉，并加入了她称之为番茄酱、黑莓和红醋栗的调料制作而成，“不仅如此，汉堡包已成为一门烹饪学。”

Some of the most celebrated chefs in the city have taken up the challenge. Yannick Alléno, who earned a third Michelin star in 2007 for his precise, rarefied cuisine at Le Meurice, serves a thick, succulent hamburger at his casual restaurant, Le Dali. Mr. Alléno’s baker, Frédéric Lalos, a winner of one of the country’s fiercest cooking competitions, makes the buns. With smoked bacon, lettuce, dill pickles, mustard, mayonnaise and fries, the burger at Le Dali costs 35 euros, about $56.

这个城 市最有名的一些厨师已经接受了这一挑战。Yannick Alléno, 他曾于2007年在Le Meurice他的名叫Le Dali休闲餐厅,以其精确、纯净的烹饪技艺，制作了一个厚厚的，含有多种水果的汉堡包 而获得了第三颗迈克林星。Mr. Alléno的名叫Frédéric Lalos,面包师，是这个国家竞争最激烈的烹饪大赛的获奖者之一，他做这种小圆饼。他使用烟熏的培根，莴苣，小茴香，芥末，蛋黄酱和炸薯条制作汉堡，在Le Dali，这种汉堡卖到35欧元一个，合约56美元。

The only thing more surprising than the about-face in chefs’ attitudes may be the enthusiasm with which their patrons have devoured these haute burgers.

厨师们的态度中唯一比这种大转变更使人吃惊的可能是对他们老板吃光这些奢侈的汉堡的极大热情。

“I didn’t think we would sell so many,” said Sonia Ezgulian, guest chef at Café Salle Pleyel, which Ms. Samuel opened last fall in an airy, modernist space inside one of Paris’s most prestigious concert halls.

“我想我们不可能卖出那么多，”一个在Café Salle Pleyel工作的名叫Sonia Ezgulian的客座厨师说,这个餐厅位于巴黎最负名的通透的、富于现代化气息的音乐大厅内，于去年秋季开张。

On some days, as many as a third of her customers order the burger, which is offered alongside Mediterranean-inspired dishes like sea bass with fennel confit and pistachios. “Sometimes we say we have no more,” she said. “It’s just too much.”

有时，她的顾客中有多达三分之一的人预定这种汉堡，它们被盛在一个形似黑鲈的具有地中海风格的餐盘中。“有时我们说没货了，这的确是有点过份。”她说。

When a new guest chef replaces Ms. Ezgulian at the end of August, he will keep the burger on the menu. It’s in his contract.

 8月底，新的客座厨师取代 Ezgulian 太太时，他将仍把这种汉堡保留在菜单中。这是合同中确定的。

IT is not as if hamburgers were unknown in Paris. American restaurants here like Joe Allen have long served them. Ms. Grasser-Hermé ate her first in 1961 at the American Legion, 11 years before McDonald’s unveiled its golden arches in France. But with few exceptions the local burgers were flat, overcooked and shunned even by American expatriates.

与早些年汉堡在巴黎不为人知不同，这里的美国餐厅如乔阿伦早就开始供应。Grasser-Hermé 太太1961年第一次在美国退伍军人协会里吃到，比麦当劳在法国开始隆重推出早11年。但当地的汉堡几乎毫无例外地是扁平的，烤得过久，甚至当地美国侨民都不喜欢吃。

Other forms of ground or chopped beef have been enjoyed here for years as well. Butchers sell kilos of ground meat destined to become steak haché, a pan-seared patty made with lean meat, pressed into an oval, and served without a bun.

另一种粗牛肉或带骨牛肉多年以来在这里也很受欢迎。屠夫们为制作牛排饼而卖出一些粗牛肉，这种小馅饼包有瘦肉，用平底锅煎制而成，并压缩成椭圆形，不与小圆饼一起供应。

And while steak tartare shows up on practically every brasserie menu, chefs now recognize that a hamburger is not simply six ounces of chopped lean beef grilled until crusty.

“No, that would be an error,” said Ms. Grasser-Hermé.

 当这种烤牛肉真正在一些啤酒餐厅的菜单上出现时，厨师们意识到汉堡不仅是烤脆的六盎司的带骨瘦牛肉。

“不，这是一种错误的想法。” Grasser-Hermé太太说。.